Cholula, Puebla

Well I had to come back here. The last time I was here, a place I've wanted to visit for a long time, our schedule didn't allow us much time to tour the town. For a social studies teacher not to be able to explore the town wit the largest pyramid in the world is tough to take. So on my free day, I'm back.

First, the night's sleep in the Holiday Inn was a long overdue good night's sleep wth the things you often take for granted in the States; AC, dependable electricity and plumbing, and a sealed environment with no outside critters. I slept like a champ. I had to make myself get out of bed by opening the curtains that kept my room dark as night until 9:30am. But I opened my curtains to the view you can see, of "Popo" and the "Sleeping Woman", the two most famous volcanoes in Mexico.

The tour of Cholula, a neighboring town just outside of Puebla, the 4th largest city in all of Mexico, is a much smaller town with humble dwellings and 365 churches hundreds of years old, apparently one for every day of the year. The most famous may be the Iglesia de Nuestra Senora de Los Remedios built atop a pyramid in the late 1500s. Few realize that underneath the beautiful church is the largest pyramid in the world (by volume), built in the 2nd century BCE consisting of 6-7 pyramids/layers built on top of each pyramid of hundreds of years. If you look closely at the pictures of the church, you will see the pyramid still covered in vegetation, yet obvious to the eye. With the view of the two famous volcanoes Popocatépetl and his lover Iztaccíhuatl in the background, the view of the Church of Our Lady of the Rememdies atop the pyramid is simply without words to describe. I called my wife on our first anniversary from the pyramid.

The Aztec legend of Popocatépetl and Iztaccíhuatl says that Popocatépetl was a great warrior, and when Iztaccíhuatl, the daughter of Popocatépetl's leader, fell in love with him, her father promised Popocatépetl his daughter's hand in marriage when he returned from battle in Oaxaca, something Iztaccíhuatl's father assumed he would not be able to do. When Iztaccíhuatl was falsely told of her lover's death in battle, she died of grief. Upon Popocatépetl's return and his learning of her death, he took her body outside the Aztec capital of Tenochtitlan (today's Mexico City) and stayed by her grave. The gods took pity on them both, covering them with snow, and immortalizing them as mountains. Iztaccíhuatl is a combination of the Nahuatl (Aztec language) words "iztac" which means white, and "cihuatl" meaning woman. Often, her mountain is referred to as "La Mujer Dormida", The Sleeping Woman, which she very much resembles from almost any vantage point. Popocatépetl still shows his grief and anger today as an active volcano whose ashes and smoke can be seen in almost all of his photos.

Finally, the most special part of my weekend in Cholula was the Ramirez family I met while visiting the Iglesia de San Andres. As I was taking photos of the church, Armando Ramirez, walked over to me and introduced himself, and then his family. I asked why the youngest girl was all dressed in white, and he told me their had been a baptism in his family a few moments before. We spent the next hour or more talking about his time in the United States and my time in Mexico in each others languages. He told me a little about the church as a group walked around it singing, playing guitar, and blessing some sort of change in leadership at the church (video). All the while, fireworks were going off, as they had been all day around Cholula at all of the churches and it was easy to see the smoke from the "fuegos artificios" from atop the pyramid earlier in the day. Apparently this was not a saint's day or festival, but happens every Sunday.

After I had met the family and asked if I could take pictures of his grandchildren Daira and Frida (see photo), we must have spent ten minutes taking pictures one at a time with me and each of the 20 or so members of his family. Everyone wanted a photo with the "teacher from the United States". Armando then invited me to his home the weekend of July 31st when I am returning with the group. I exchanged email addresses with one of his daughters and am sending the photos we took with my camera. His mother, who had to have been in her late 80s at least, then held my hand for about a full minute, looked me in the eye, and said even though she didn't know my family, she wished them and myself the best of health and gave me her blessings. I told her what an honor it was to have met her, her son Armando, and his family on this special day, and how I almost didn't walk to the old church that I had seen from both my hotel room and atop the pyramid. I'm so blesed and happy I did. I hope I can meet up with the Ramirez Silva family next weekend. The kindness and hospitality of the Mexican people I have met cannot be overstated. What a beautiful day in Cholula, Puebla, Mexico. I'll never forget the hour I spent this day with the Ramirez family.

Taxco

Well it didn't take long for me to remember why Taxco just may be my favorite place in Mexico. I went back to my favorite restaurant with my friend John (video below) and had some delicious queso cilantro with some chips and warm tortillas. Our view was incredible on a beautiful sunny day with a breeze in the air. The beautiful pink church behind us, Santa Prisca, was built by Jose de La Borda with the money he made from the famed local silver mines in the 18th century and is a great example of Baroque architecture from the period. The deal he made with the Vatican was that if he built the church, his son Manuel would be the first priest. Manuel was, in fact, the first priest of Santa Prisca and went on to build the Jardin Borda (Borda Gardens) in Cuernavaca, later a summer home to Hapsburg Emperor Maximillian in the mid 1800s.

Taxco is a trip back in time and has alot of European influence, with its cobblestone streets that twist and meander all through the mountainside on which the city was founded. You will not find any streetlights due to local ordinances, and the white stucco and terracotta tile roofs, also code, help preserve the city's charm and history.

That's Adriana, her little sister Lupe, and Marcos. They were quite the salespeople with their cute faces and multicolored Chicklets for a peso. They were kind enough to pose for a pic while standing in the doorway of the south entrance to Santa Prisca. The doors, by the way, not only of this church, but of so many of the places we have visited, are themselves beautiful pieces of art that have withstood hundreds of years of the elements, and still function perfectly with their hand-wrought iron hinges, bolts, locks, and handles. If you don't stop to look at the door you just passed through, you could miss these beautiful pieces of history, too, that are also great testaments to the skills of the carpenters and masons of the time. "They just don't make 'em like they used to" comes to mind.

Another picture shows a young girl selling chicharrones (pork grinds) and more outside her house on one of the many tiny alleys tht just never end and are almost never sraight. Work starts at a young age here in Mexico, and you notice it as soon as you leave the airport and everywhere you go. Speaking of the people, its long overdue that I mention how incredibly nice and hospitable the people of Mexico are. As John an i walk along one of the streets, now deep into their neighborhhods and away from the crowds and tourists, you can here the tone and genuine warmth of the man on my right as I say good afternoon to him. And that's how it is with everyone, everywhere, no exaggeration. I'll have to do an entire entry on the people of Mexico separate from the entries on the places we visit. It simply warrants it.

The last thing I'll mention is the silver. All of it is mined locally here in Taxco, and their are three mines still open today, though currently they are on strike as the "leader" of the mines, according to the locals, took off with their money and hasn't been seen in months. The silver, though, is all (if you go the right places) .925 purity or above, and is very reasonably priced. More noteworthy, though, is the uniqueness of the designs and craftmanship of each piece in each store. Even Frida wore a necklace from here as seen in one of the shops' photos. The pieces are almost as beautiful as the city they can be found in.

Doctor Visit in Mexico

Today I had a unique experience as a traveller in another country. I went to the doctor.

My first surprise was that originally, my appointment was on a Saturday. The doctor had to call and cancel, but still, a Saturday appointment is an opportunity not usually enjoyed in the States.

So today, my appointment was for 11:30. I arrived a bit early, and the receptionist was very nice as we watched "Hoy", the Mexican version of "The Today Show", only with silly sketch comedy. We talked for about 10 minutes about where I was from and my visit here to study Spanish and bring some Mexican culture back to the classrooms of Maryland. My Spanish is definitely improving since I can speak in more than one tense now. As I laughed at the television, she asked if I understood what they were saying. I answered, "most of the time." We both agreed that we understand more when the person speaking in our different languages speaks more slowly. She then pulled out her small book of English as she saw my Spanish dictionary on my lap. We had several laughs, one of which when I told her I had been practicing my Spanish at night wth my host "mama" watching the telenovelas.

I was the only person in the waiting room, which was the front hall of the building. The doctor arrived at 11:30 sharp, the receptionist immediately followed him to his office, and I was then invited by her to go on in. The doctor had now put on his white coat and welcomed me. As I said "Buenos dias, doctor," he asked me to call him Hector. Another pleasant surprise.

The rest of the appointment was spent as expected, all in Spanish. I was able to communicate my pain in my wrist from my car accident over two months ago and he was able to communicate the diagnosis and treatment. I was relieved. There were a couple more differences, though, between this appointment and the usual doctors' appointments I've had in the States.

One was that at no point did I feel rushed. That was nice. I have recently found two doctors in the States where I have had a similar experience, so I am not saying that it doesn't exist in the US. But I find it interesting that I recently had to change primary care physicians due to a lack of attention, once his being an hour late, and 3 times out of 4 feeling rushed in and out with an incorrect diagnosis, while my first experience in Mexico was the opposite in all 4 categories.

Another funny part was that the doctor TYPED up his prescription right there in his office on an old typewriter, setting the roll just right and all. My bill came to 600 pesos, about $55 U.S. dollars. But when I asked for a receipt for my records, the receptionist was not able to give me one without a Mexican address or ID. So she talked to the doctor, and again he took my prescription and asked if it would be okay if he typed it on that. So my typed "prescription" now includes directions for the pharmacy, the date and time of my next appointment, and proof of receipt of my payment. Not sure I'm getting the shot he suggested, though, which is #1 on the "receipt." Good stuff.

Frescoes and Futbol in Malinalco

Well, only one thing could have been different... Holland could have won:(. Other than that, what an awesome time in Malinalco. About a two hour drive from Cuernavaca, it is located in the state of Mexico. The origin of its name comes from the goddess Malinalxóchil. The municipality of Malinalco is also home to the village of Chalma where it is said the Black Christ appeared around 1537, the second most visited shrine in Mexico after the Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe. Franciscans, Dominicans, and finally Augustinians were all here. Even the Jesuits for a time.

Malinalco is not only famous for its pre-Aztec ruins among other things, but also for its famous 500 year-old murals that were preserved under many coats of paint until accidentally discovered in the 1970s. Known as the Paradise Garden Murals of Malinalco, they date from the 16th century and can be found in the Augustinian ex-monastery of the Divino Salvador. The murals were painted by indigenous artists, and though depict the Garden of Eden as requestd, the artists wove their own culture into the murals. It is one of the finest examples of indigenous art anywhere in the Americas and is remarkably well preserved.

Of all the places in Mexico I've had the privilege to visit, this place ranks in the top three. The ruins above provide such an incredible view of the town and surrounding area that my pictures can only suggest its beauty. Add the sounds of the drums and conch shells being blown to the echoes of the fireworks from a local celebration that resonate for several seconds around the enclosed rock walls and you can begin to appreciate the magic of Malinalco.

Tepoztlán

Today we were able to enjoy some free time to work on our curriculum and explore Cuernavaca. I took the opportunity to return to one of my favorite places in Mexico, Tepoztlán. Only about 30 minutes and a 120 peso taxi ride ($10 US dollars!) from downtown Cuernavaca, this place is known for its magic and energy. It gets its name from the Nahuatl word Tepoztli meaning copper. According to the locals, UFOs as well as hippies from around the world can be found here.

Tepoztlán is also home to the World Heritage Site, Ex-Convento Dominico de la Natividad which dates back to the 16th century (background). The market in Tepoztlán is also well known, especially on Sundays. It is also home to the best salsa I've ever had at a restaurant. And that's no weenie size portion like you get in the States. This is enough to feed a table of four. The ladies at this restaurant Los Colorines also make the second best guacamole in the world (My wife puts tomatillos and more in hers ;)) It was another great day in Tepoztlán. I can't wait to come back in two weeks.

Futbol con mexicanos

Yesterday we were invited by my friend of 3 years Yamil to play soccer. I've always wanted to play soccer in Mexico. Since my days of coaching at Sanchez High School and seeing how talented the students and players were, I've only imagined what their childhoods were like growing up in a nation that appreciates "the beautiful game". And with the World Cup going on, it has been a privilege to be down here for it. There is a big screen TV set up in the middle of the square in el centro de Cuernavaca were people not only watch the game live, but the rebroadcast afterwards, too. I was in the square for 3 of Germany's 4 goals against Argentina last week, and the Mexicans seemed to love every one as they cheered loudly after each of Alemania's goals. Apparently, many Mexicans find Argentinans to be a little snobby. It doesn't help that thier current coach Maradona has been less than humble during the World Cup. My friend tels me though, that he has many Argentinan friends and that they are not that way at all. Nevertheless, most of the people in the zocalo that day were cheering for Germany. How lucky I am to be here for the World Cup, much better than the States.
The game yesterday was 6 on 6, and called a "cascara" which is apparently a low key "friendly", no shin guards, and especially fun in the rain. It rained right before we started and rained the whole time. It's a memory I'll never forget. Everyone was so nice as always. Yamil's 7 year-old scored on me twice when I was in goal as portero. I scored once. Our team lost by a point in penales, but it was great. We went for flan and beer (Pacifico) afterwards at Yamil's restaurant, Callo y Camaron, which is celebrating its 3 year aniversario. We are all so sore today, it's funny. Since it was raining, I don't have any pics of the game or players. It wasa nice field of astroturf and recycled tires like the field the NFL and other sports play on nowadays. We'll play again before we leave, I think. Yamil said he is sore, too. So are the other two gringos I brought with me to the game from our trip. they kept calling us Donovan and Lalas.

In the picture, Yamil is second from the left. His grandparents came over from Syria and Lebanon. His 3 year old son is named Dayub, which is Arabic for David. He has treatd me like a brother since I met him 3 years ago. Yesterday's game with his friends and family was not only a small dream come true, it was one of the best 90 minutes of my life...

Teotihuacan, "Birthplace of the Gods"

Believed to have been created around the 2nd or 3rd century BCE, Teotihuacan is about a 30-45 minute drive northeast of Mexico City. By the time the Aztec (or Mexica) are believed to have found the ancient city in the 14th century, it was completely abandoned. Teotihuacan is Nahuatl (language of the Aztec) for "Birthplace of the Gods" or "Place of the Gods". There are several theories as to why. One is that the Aztec found some of the mammoth bones that have been discovered here and thought they were the bones of gods. There is much still to be excavated and learned about the city's history, which at its height is believed to have been home to nearly 150,000 people or more, rivaling any of the world's largest cities across the oceans at the time. There is also much evidence of cross cultural contact with the Maya here. This is the largest archeological site I have ever been to. It takes hours to explore, even days. Though they are often considered misnamed, the Pyramids of the Sun and the Moon are impressive. This is my 3rd time here, and I did find something this time that was funny. Throughout the 6 hour visit, you constantly heard the sound of a jaguar, something that my friend pointed out took over 2,000 years to come up with. It is a small whistle like "toy" that the vendors blow and sell at every step of the tour, not to mention the children that have bought one and also spend the day making the sound. I have to say, it does sound exactly like a roar when the vendors, who are pros, do it right. I found my friend's point funny, still. These toys were not here 3 years ago. It was an amazing feeling to be here in this place of the gods where such a powerful yet mysteriously unknown civilization once ruled the land as the largest city in the Americas, and 6th largest in the world. What an honor it was to be walking along the Avenue of the Dead and see the colors made by the cochineal insect and plants 2000 years ago still on the stones and artwork. Truly awesome in the real sense of the word. ...Go Holland this Sunday against Spain in the final, too! Notice the hat :).

Visit to a Local School

Today we visited the Colegio Excelencia Bilingue, a private school that serves kids from preschool (K1-3) through 9th grade. Beginning next year, Mexico has made it mandatory that students begin learning English in preschool. This school, which costs about $2500 pesos ($220 US) a month, teaches students in K-3 (kindergarten) to read first in English, and then Spanish, as it is easier to transition to reading Spanish after learning all of the different vowel souds in English. Spanish vowels only have one pronunciation, always.
Teachers here earn between $550-$800 US dollars a month. Secondary school (grades 7-9) is mandatory for all children, but ends at age 15. Answers have varied widely, but many students do not continue their education into the years we would consider high school in the US. But for the students in this school and most other private schools in Mexico, students almost always continue their schooling up to and including college. There is, however, a severe shortage of available spaces in colleges for many who apply.
Upon arrival today, the students were listening to and singing Michael Jackson! It was classic. Then they serenaded us with theri ABCs. And during our tour, we could hear the older kids cheering loudly as they competed in a schoolwide Spelling Bee. Nellie, a 5th grader, was in tears after she won the contest, which was in English. The experience, I felt, gave us much to appreciate about our educational opportunities in the States. It left me with much admiration for the devoted teachers in Mexico, and their dedicated students, all of whom were incredibly respectful to their visitors from the United States. I wish I had gotten the winning word...

First Full Day

We met our host families yesterday, and how nice it was to see mi mama, Dora, again. I've never been surrounded by so many genuine and nice people as I have here in Cuernavaca, and it didn't take long for me to remember how special it is to be here. We are working hard in our Spanish language classes for three hours every morning. This afternoon we took a tour of the city, which included the Palacio de Cortez. The fortress was constructed by Cortez in the early 1500s atop an indigenous temple from which much of the building borrowed its stones. Today, it is a museum with pre and post colonial artifacts as well as some incredible murals by Diego Rivera.

Mercado municipal

On the first day that we went to school, it only took ten minutes to see something noteworthy of my journal. On the way there, we passed the Mercado municipal. This common market was very busy to be so early in the morning and smelled very much like trash. Outside this market there were two S10 pickup trucks with the beds entirely full of fresh, butchered red meat; all raw, sitting out in open air. It was probably 80 degrees outside at the time.

Welcome to Mexico

I was reminded today as we flew over Mexico city how crowded Mexico City is. Depending on the parameters, it is the third most populated city or urban area in the world with nearly 25 million people, and you can definitely tell this just from the flight over the city. Every block is so packed with structures.

Customs took about an hour, as usual, and sadly, after we made it through, Mexico was already down 2-0 to Argentina in the Copa Mundial. We watched the game from the airport cafe while the group exchanged currency. Many of us were looking forward to being in Mexico during the Cup and hopefully catching a game among the Mexican people while cheering on their team. We are still lucky to be here in a country that appreciates "the beautiful game" for the quarterfinals and championship, though. Luckily we have a free day on the 2nd of July to watch the games with the Mexican people. What a treat that will be!